As I was still recovering (and needed to be close to a toilet), we decided to walk the old town this morning. Lunch was taken in the Telegrafo Hotel as this was where we were transferring to later in the day when Hans and Sue returned to town after their expedition ‘down south’.
In the afternoon we took in the Museum of the Revolution. It has a wonderful collection of photos and revealed some interesting information. The museum is located in the old Spanish Governor’s Palace and it displays remnants of both the old and the ‘new’.
One can see a painting of Jose Marti freeing Cuba from the Spanish hanging next to a bronze sculpture depicting the three heroes of the revolution – Fidel Castro, Ernesto Guevera (‘Che’ was just his nickname … it means ‘hey’ or ‘hey you’ in Argentinian slang and is a term of endearment used by Argentines when addressing a friend or comrade) and Camilo Cienfuegos. This statue graces the entrance of the dictator Batista’s office.
In his office, in addition to his desk and reception furniture, is a gold plated phone presented to him by AT&T when he handed over the monopoly responsibility for all telecommunications in Cuba to this US company. The adjacent ‘hall of mirrors’ which is still used for official receptions, is strongly reminiscent of the Palace of Versailles, albeit in a state of great disrepair.
Everywhere were displays of Castro’s devotion to the people (particularly in the areas of literacy for all, agrarian land reform and medical care) and their devotion to him. He seems to have been a natural leader and truly a hero of the people. We also found out that in the first few months after the revolutionaries seized power, huge amounts of currency were carried out of Cuba in the bags and boats of those who were in cahoots with the imperialists and were fleeing the country.
In a stroke of genius, Che (in his new role as governor of the Bank of Cuba) issued a new set bank of non-convertible notes, which over night rendered the more than $42 million in currency that had been carried out of the country completely worthless. Ha - take that you capitalist oppressors!
In the outside gardens were exhibits of military/revolutionary hardware of significance. This display included the boat (Granma) that brought Fidel and Che and their small group of freedom fighters back to Cuba from Mexico, the jeep and the tank that Fidel drove (complete with bullet holes) in the Bay of Pigs battle and, most impressive of all, part of the USAF plane that the US would not acknowledge had been shot down in that battle.
The plaque read that the Cuban’s kept the pilot’s body until finally, in 1979, the US gave up denying the truth and acknowledged the plane as USAF and asked that the pilot’s remains be returned to his family. Only then were the remains returned to the US for burial.
It is very difficult to ascertain what is truth and what is propaganda – from both sides – in this place! So in the end we just gave up trying and returned to our hotel to ponder our feelings and while having drinks on the balcony. Watching the people and cool cars go by was addictive. Roasted peanuts are sold in the streets in paper cones for 50c and they were delicious with our cold beers - Cristal and Bucanero at $2 each.
Later in the afternoon we met up with Hans and Sue and had a mohito at the La Bodeguita del Medio where Hemmmingway used to drink and then a dinner of kebabed meats and seafood at the Spanish Club. After dinner we were entertained by talented flamenco dancers and musicians, and even a magician. But the most amusing part was hearing of the Sauer’s trip down south and in particular Han’s diplomatic efforts when pulled over for speeding.
He received a $60 fine but was told that if he paid $30 in cash he would be free to go. It soon became obvious that some Cuban police keep a special look for tourist plates and will use any excuse to pull over such vehicle and sting the occupants – this just one of the little signs of the emerging corruption.
After a long and enjoyable evening we said our goodbyes to Hans and Sue and headed off to bed. Tomorrow they are off on another adventure in another country with another set of friends, while we will take over custody of their hire car and head off down south ourselves. How lucky we are to travel so freely to see all that the world has on offer for our heads and hearts.
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